In the previous part, we mainly polished and cleaned the engine block, but we found that the impression is not good, because the rubber and other parts of the harness for sensors and electrical components have deteriorated, and some parts rust quickly without paint, so we detailed the paint and the repair of the parts attached to the engine. We tried to improve the overall impression by doing so.
This is also the first time we are doing this work, and we have made quite a few mistakes, so we will report on those as well.
- Painting the engine head cover
- Cleaning and painting of the oil tank, clutch cover and coolant pipes
- Production of oil pan gaskets
- Generator update
- Summary of engine update work
- Used tools and equipment
Painting the engine head cover
I had tried this on the VFR800, but I also wanted to paint the engine head on the CBR with red aperture paint.
Looking through the cover is kind of proof that I've taken good care of it, and it's totally the domain of my hobby.
The paint for the aperture paint is quite transparent, so after making the black part of the aluminum head invisible, masking, degreasing and preparing a wire for hanging, the special paint is applied in several layers.
The main engine cover is being painted
After a little drying, it is hung in a simple oven and baked at 80°C for about an hour. An infrared heater was introduced this time to increase heating efficiency. When heated, the paint wrinkles and hardens.
The main engine cover is stuck
I applied a thick layer of paint, as usual, this time because it doesn't crease unless applied very thickly, but as a result of letting it dry while hanging, the thickness of the paint became uneven, and on closer inspection , the result is a bit disappointing. The shape is complex and wrinkled, so it doesn't look bad at a glance, and since it's not usually visible, we decided to give it a DIY "flavor".
After seizing the main engine cover
Cleaning and painting of the oil tank, clutch cover and coolant pipes
In addition to the main cover, the oil tank, clutch cover and coolant pipes, which have a large area and are easily visible with dirt, are painted with a gun coat. The outside of the oil pan and clutch cover is polished with a metal brush, and the inside is soda blasted. They are then painted with gun coat and baked in a toaster with a temperature control function.
Clutch cover after painting
The radiator pipe had a hole in it and was discontinued and we couldn't find parts for it in Japan so we tried our first overseas auction. Fortunately (?) I was able to get it for a low price because it was an unpopular and small part. I sandblasted the parts I received to remove as much rust as possible and painted them with gun coat paint.
Dilapidated and useless pipes and used pipes that were even painted.
Production of oil pan gaskets
I knew the oil pan gasket had expired this time, so I was wondering if I should ask a shop that makes discontinued gaskets to remove the oil pan. Since the gasket will be needed in the future, I thought it might be necessary to be able to make it myself, so I got a film cutter that I have wanted for 20 years from an online auction. I got a film cutter that I had wanted for 20 years and bought it at an online auction. I challenged myself to cut it out of a generic packing sheet.
Pattern paper cutting
The procedure involves cutting out a piece of paper with a copy of the adhesive surface of the gasket and scanning it with a film cutter.
Scanning and correction in progress.
The imported image is slightly modified on the computer and used as data for carving. I cut a general purpose gasket sheet attached to a special backing with usable double sided tape using a deep cutting edge setting, but the cutting edge setting was too loose so I ended up using a utility knife and a 6mm hole punch to cut it. out.
(The film cutter did most of the editing, so I think it was by far the easiest thing to do.)
Ordinary packing plate is cut
Sharpen the surface of the gasket mounting area on the oil pan with a grinding stone and install it in combination with the floating gasket. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque and you're done.
Although I made some mistakes, now I can make different packs and stickers myself and I am looking forward to the future.
Oil pan installed
Replacement of h-belt protection tube
The motor is connected to various sensors and switches and it would be a waste to waste a clean motor if the cables were tired and it would also be bad for water to enter the motor due to degraded rubber parts.
However, most components have connectors attached to them, so to protect them with the right size heat shrink tubing, you have to cut the wires once and set the tubing before soldering, which is a cure. Do we fix it or break it? (We apologize for the inconvenience each time, but it was completely self-soldering. Sorry each time, at your own risk. Please note that cutting and reconnecting signal wires and ETC antennas on a new bike may prevent it from working properly.)
In this case, we used braided nylon protective tubing in addition to thermocompression tubing.
The CBR1000F (SC21) uses a regular alternator like those found in motorcycles, rather than an alternator built into the engine.
Generator before polishing
Since it's a relatively inconspicuous part, we thought it would be cool if we painted it. So we painted it with a gun coat mixed with a primer that allows baking at 80°C. However, it failed because the paint flowed after about two weeks. However, the paint started to lift after approx. 2 weeks which was a failure.
Generator with peeling gun coat paint
Then only the steel parts were coated with galvanized paint to prevent rust.
Generator with galvanized painted steel parts
This was a case that reaffirmed the importance of temperature control during baking for gun coating.
Summary of engine update work
The engine was so tired that I sighed when I saw it in the garage. After confirming that the engine was in good condition, we washed, polished, sanded, painted, burned, cut and wired the engine.
It was all new to me and I struggled with it. I tried to clean it up as much as possible by DIY without spending a lot of money, although I'm sure experts would have told me there are better ways to do it.
I didn't achieve a shiny finish, but I'm personally very happy with the results.
Engine after operation
It may soon become dirty, rusty or peeling, but this will lead to an increase in experience. Thanks to the abundance of information on the web, the availability of used parts and the availability of mail order where you can buy anything, I have managed to continue work that I would have given up 20 years ago.
There is still a lot of work to be done but I will continue to work on it after this and I believe it will be completed one day if I keep at it.
Next time I will work on the regeneration of the cooling system, which I believe is the reason for this bike's immobility.
Used tools and equipment
Complete set of metal polishing environment
complete set of sandblasting
Gun coating complete set
Toaster with temperature control (*Editor's note: for kitchen use)
Film cutter (Brother Scan Cut)
6 mm hul
Soldering environment set